April 19 – 27, 2024
For this trip, I partnered with Rochdi Ahmed Allal – an Algerian guide with a passion for Roman history – and Jerry Sorkin, founder of Iconic Journeys Worldwide, to bring a small group through the spectacular but seldom-visited Roman ruins of Algeria.
We spent part of the first day exploring the dramatic topography and rich history of Constantine, the largest city in eastern Algeria.
Then we drove to the small but dramatically-situated Roman city of Tiddis (Castellum Tidditanorum).
We spent the following day at Djemila (ancient Cuicul), one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world. It was also one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen; green hills filled every horizon, and spring wildflowers carpeted the ground.
The next day, we visited the fortress of the third legion at Lambaesis, a fascinating but neglected site. The highlight here was the so-called Groma, the monumental entrance of the legionary headquarters complex.
Then, Timgad, the Pompeii of Roman Africa. I was prepared to be impressed; but the site surpassed every expectation. The most magical moment came at the end of our visit, when we stood on the steps of the temple dedicated to the Genius of the city, and watched the sun set over the ruins.
We ventured well off the beaten track (even by Algerian standards) the day after, when we visited Madaurus. Besides its historical associations (this was the native city of the Roman author Apuleius, and St. Augustine received his primary education here), the highlight of the site was its well-preserved Byzantine castle.
Nearby Khemissa (ancient Thubursicum) was a pleasant surprise – an intact Roman town spread out over a green hill with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.
On Day 6, we explored some of the sites around Annaba (ancient Hippo). Perhaps the most memorable was Hammam Maskhoutine, where hot springs spilled over travertine terraces reminiscent of Pamukkale in Turkey.
We focused on Annaba itself the following day, walking down medieval alleyways and French colonial boulevards before making our way to the site of Hippo, the city of St. Augustine. I was particularly struck by the forum, whose marble pavement still bore the monumental inscription of its donor. Sheep grazed in the background.
That evening, we flew to Algiers, which became the next day’s point of departure for Cherchell, with its impressive museum…
…and the partially-excavated site of Tipasa, where the ruins of Roman villas run down to the rocky coast.
We had a final dinner in Algiers – and then, after saying my goodbyes, I set off for Tunisia early the following morning. I look forward to returning to Algeria, hopefully with another group.